The Alternative, Better Tasting, Cheaper Way to Travel!
Here at Don Isaac International, we understand your need for exploration at a lower cost. As an alternative to the popular Inca Trail, we have created the four-day Don Isaac Trail, a cheaper and far more varied trek. To find out if the Don Isaac Trail is right for you, read our detailed itinerary below.Day One
- 0800 - Wake up in Cuzco, pack luggage
- 0900 - Pick up street churros on way to bus
- 1000 - Bus to Urubamba (2 Soles)
Here is one satisfied trekker's account of the Sacred Valley:As we roll out of Cuzco, it is raining, hard. We wind up the streets into the hills, over the mountain, into the Andian flatlands. The road is windy, but the bus is slow. After a few minutes, we are in the Sacred Valley. The clouds have cleared and the sun is warming the earth.
Outside my window is a patchwork quilt of browns and golds, fields already harvested, dead after the dry winter. The colors are homey and warm and remind me of autumn and Thanksgiving. The land is gently hilly. The feilds follow the undulations -- farm plots start in the valley and reach the tops of hills. It is quite striking.
Years ago, when I flew over the Midwestern USA and plain country, I was in awe at the patterns of green below. There were fields after fields after fields -- squares and rectangles of every green shade in the crayon box. It went on for hours. See how many farms there are in the vast USA! See how lush the earth is, how many varieties of plants must exist to occupy the land over so many miles in so many colors!
Though not as verdant as the central States, these fields seem no less fertile. This valley has already done its job for the year. In another month, the rain will begin, and the fields will be planted again.
And oh! When we climb over the edge of the quilt, we reach the valley of Urubamba, green and lush, nestled in between towering peaks, like the kingdom far, far away in a fairy tale.
- 1200 - Arrive in Urubamba, the Sacred Valley hub of transportation. Seek out bus station to Quillabamba, in order to make next connection at local stop Santa Maria. You may be told that there may not be available busses to Quillabamba because they are not in Cuzco yet. You will sit and think about what this means, then five busses from Quillabamba en route to Cuzco will pull up at the same time. You will then realize that the mountain passes to Quillabamba are snowy and icy, and thus prone to delay. You may also realize at this point that you could have taken a bus directly to Quillabamba from Cuzco, but this extra step adds fun to the journey.
- 1230 - Stow bags at random hostel, set out for Salineras salt terraces
- 1530 - Return from Salineras with a long walk on the road
- 1800 - Eat a dinner of "corn" at hostel with your bags. This dinner won't fill you up, but it is a good introduction to the local cuisine.
- 1900 - Try to buy tickets to Quillabamba for 19:30 bus. This bus will be full. You can buy tickets for the later bus, at 22:30 bus, which will allow you to eat a second dinner and have some relaxation time, or perhaps card-playing time, before boarding. (17 Soles)
- 2300 - Board bus.
Day Two
- 0100 - Bus will stop in snowy mountain pass. Don't worry, this is a normal occurance at this high elevation. What often causes these delays are large trucks heading in the opposite direction that can't make it up the hill. There may be several busses behind that truck waiting to pass, as well. Your bus-mates may chatter loudly about the situation. They are merely as excited as you will be, but are expressing it verbally.
- 1230 - Men will hop off your bus and the other waiting busses to push the truck up the hill, into a double-laned passing area. One of you may want to get out and help, perhaps by pushing a rock behind the truck's wheel so that it does not continu to slide backwards down the hill. If you elect to stay on the bus, you can take out your sleeping bag for extra warmth.
- 1300 - By this time, the truck will have been moved out of the way. The waiting busses will have stalled at this point and need to jump-start or switch batteries.
- 0315 - Bus continues on its way to Quillabamba!! Here you have time to rest up for the exciting day ahead!
- 0700 - Arrive in charming, one-block-long Santa Maria. Eat Huevos y pan for breakfast at the hostel you were dropped off at. Here you can inquire about the combi to Santa Teresa. You will probably be told that they don't arrive until noon, maybe. You may realize here that you could have taken the bus all the way to Quillabamba and gotten a combi to Santa Teresa there, where they originate, but remember, The Don Isaac Trail is all about adventure!
- 0800 - Walk over bridge to road to Santa Teresa. While you are waiting for the combi you can breath in the fresh jungle air and admire the local roosters and piglets. You can also read or nap on the rocks by the river.
- 1100 - As luck would have it, you can also hitch a ride to Santa Teresa on a soda truck! This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, giving you insight into how business is done here in the mountains. When else will you be able to ride high atop a pick-up truck full of Oro Verdi? Is there a better way to admire the flora and fauna of the Eastern Andes? If you pay attention, you will be able to spot banana trees, papaya trees, and even coffee plants from the largest coffee supplier of Peru! You might also run into some local children, who will gaze and cheer at you as if you are a celebrity!
- 1330 - Arrive in Santa Teresa. Notice the massive construction efforts this town is making. Perhaps it is due to the increasing popularity of The Don Isaac Trail. We shall soon see. Ask any local person, for example a man handling a wheelbarrow, how to cross the mighty Urubamba River. Everyone is friendly in Santa Teresa!
- 1340 - Strap bags and selves into basket zip-line. Pull self across the raging river. Don't worry about falling out of the basket; This has only happened a few times before. THERE IS NO NEED TO PAY WAITING PERSONS ON THE OTHER SIDE. Many people mistakenly tip those "helpers" who pull their rope across. These other people are simply waiting their turn to cross the river. (1 Sol, if you tip by accident)
- 1350 - Begin hike to Idro, the hydro-electric power station behind Aguas Calientes.
- 1405 - You may have to stop to remove layers of clothing and eat lunch. You have been traveling for hours -- don't exhaust yourself!
- 1430 - Continue hiking. You will pass a tractor carrying local girls in its claws. Sadly, these tractors do not pick up backpackers. Neither does the municipal bus service, though its purpose is to drive people from Santa Teresa to Idro.
- 1530 - By this time, you have been hiking for an hour. If you are lucky, you will hear the sound of the sanitation truck behind you before it passes. If you stand in the middle of the road, it will have no choice but to stop and pick you up. This truck will be very different from the soda truck. You can stand or sit in the truck bed, but hold on tight! Sanitation workers drive fast! (4 Soles)
- 1540 - Arrive in Idro. Ask sanitation workers for directions to train station. They will probably tell you that the train has already left. This is to be expected, though the train may still be sitting at the station. Peruvians often lie for no reason.
- 1543 - Once you realize the train is still at the station, you can race up the stairs to try to make it aboard. Very few people are able to accomplish this feat. Even if you are acclimatized, you will have trouble running up the several flights of stairs.
- 1545 - Mild depression may occur, but will rarely last longer than several minutes. You are in the beautiful jungle! The walk on the railroad tracks to Aguas Calientes is quite pleasant, and only takes a few hours. This way, you will be able to reach the tourist city without seeing a single white person on the way!
- 1735 - The Maccu Picchu region is prone to frequent and sudden rain. Make sure your rain gear is accessable. Also watch out for bugs -- several clients have written in expressing regret for not wearing bug repellent on this portion of the trail.
- 1815 - Arrive in Aguas Calientes just after dark. The first hostel you see, a large, sprawling, neighborhood-in-a-building, will offer you the best deal, though the rooms are quite unattractive. Take it. You can change out of your wet clothes and take a nap.
- 1900 - Dinner! There are many appetizing options here in Aguas Calientes. If you are a good bargainer, you may be able to cut the price in half! Try the Arroz de la Cubana, a delicious dish of rice, fried egg, fried plantains, and potatoes. Here you can see how the eateries opperate -- if they are out of a certain ingredient, they just walk across the street to the market and buy it for their customer! You just don't see that kind of commitment on The Inca Trail.
- 1945 - Buy snacks for the following day's trek up to Maccu Picchu.
- 2000 - Fall asleep to the sound of metal bars being thrown onto the train tracks.
SALUD!!! Phase I of The Don Isaac Trail is complete!!!! You have made it to Aguas Calientes!
Day Three
- 0500 - Alarm goes off. Turn it off. Go back to sleep. There is no need to wake up so early on The Don Isaac Trail.
- 0600 - Alarm goes off again. Ignore it. You are on vacation.
- 0800 - Alarm goes off again. Now is the correct wake-up time. Get ready to buy train tickets home for the following day.
- 0840 - You may have to argue with the cleaning lady of the hostel about the correct check-out time. Though it is listed clearly as ELEVEN AM on the office door, she will claim it is NINE and that you owe an extra night's pay. Do not listen to her. Instead, explain to the man-behind-the-desk your train ticket situation. From our experience, we know he is more understanding and will give you leeway time to see if there are available tickets.
- 0850 - Ticket Man will claim there are no available tickets on the cheap trains. Do not distress. Simply stand by the ticket window discussing amongst yourselves your options. Inevitably, Ticket Man will jump up with the recollection that he has two returned tickets for the exact train you wish to travel on. AMAZING COINCIDENCE, or not? Your luck is all part of the Don Isaac Experience.
- 0910 - Return to hostel to book an additional night. Get ready for Maccu Picchu trek.
- 1100 - Set off for Maccu Picchu. The climb up consists entirely of stairs. Hike slowly, and don't forget to take in the beautiful views!
- 1300 - Reach Maccu Picchu. Lunch time!! If you are lucky, you can find some empty seats with interesting trekkers. Two satisfied trekkers reported that they met a paraplegic charity group at the lunch spot. They were given ammonia for bug bites by the generous fellows.
- 1345 - Oftentimes, it is here by the lunch tables that our clients run into trekkers they met in previous parts of Peru, such as the peach/apricot Israelis. Two lucky clients were even able to scalp Maccu Picchu tickets from said Israelis, as the Maccu P Ticket Man does not actually collect the tickets. If you opt to scalp, make sure you memorize the names on the tickets, as Ticket Man DOES ask your nombre. (35 Soles, scalped)
- Enter Maccu Picchu!!
DINERO!! Phase II of the Don Isaac Trail is complete! You have made it to the Inca palace!
- 1400 - Once you enter Maccu Picchu, you can procede to the terraces in the west. There is a good place to sit and take in the beautiful ruins, to revel in the amazing setting, and to wonder whether the structures are real, or rebuilt.
Here is one trekker's reaction to seeing Maccu Picchu up close:Now that I have seen several Inca ruins, I am able to differentiate between their stonework and other culture´s stonework. The Inca´s were so precise. They used huge stones as the base for many walls and buildings, but carved them into corners or staircases. Then they carved smaller stones to make up walls and ceilings. But they didn´t just use squares or brick shapes. Often, the Inca walls contain pentagons, trapezoids, parallelograms. The Incas make these all fit together, with barely a seam showing. There is no grout visible, no spaces in between rocks. In fact, my friend remarked that maybe they just used huge rocks are carved in seams so it appeared they did stonework. Really, it is quite striking. The Inca walls are also quite bulbous. They don´t flatten their stones, they round them out.
In Maccu Picchu, it is clear where the original, advanced stonework of the Incas remains, and where modern efforts have been made to "restore" the site to its former glory.
- 1430 - Trekkers can split up at this point, to either sit in one place, or to wander all over the site. Make sure you catch the rounded Tomb of the Inca on the northern side of the site. The stonework is quite impressive.
- 1600 - Begin downhill trek.
- 1640 - Return to hostel in Aguas Calientes, change into bathing suits for Hot Springs.
- 1720 - You may notice that they have increased the price twofold since the last Lonely Planet book has been published. Tourism is a booming business in this country! The Don Isaac Company unfortunately has no power over these costs. Soak your worries away in the mineral-rich warm, cloudy water that gave Aguas Calientes its name! Meet some fellow Americans in the pools, and exchange travel stories!
- 1820 - When you are completely pruned out, return to your hostel. You may elect to shower with clean water here, but be warned -- it is freezing cold.
- 1900 - Late dinner. Tonight you can eat your favorite meal, Arroz de la Cubana, and drink Cuzqueña beer. (You also may get to watch the proprieter of the restaurant walk around the block trying to find said beer.)
- 2000 - Return to hostel. Buy cookies for the train ride tomorrow. Try to sleep despite bug bites.
Day Four
- 0515 - Early wake-up, pack up for train.
- 0530 - You may be told by your hostel and by locals on the street that the train is leaving. Ignore them.
- 0536 - Arrive at train station out of breath. You will now see that your train is absolutely not leaving, and in fact will not leave for another fourteen minutes, at its prescribed time. On the train you will have some time to sleep (72 Soles)
- 0745 - Arrive in Quillabamba. Eat breakfast at any number of the cute hostels lining the river.
- 0810 - Explore the Quillabamba ruins. If you forgot to bring your Boleta Touristica, do not despair. The woman who mans the booth at this site is very understanding and forgiving, and will let you through if you promise to bring your Boleta to the next site.
- 0940 - Visit the Quillabamba market. This is a good opportunity to buy bread or other food for the rest of the trek.
- 1010 - Bus to Urubamba. This may be a squishy ride, as the route is quite popular. You may have to keep your packs on your laps. This is another chance to sleep. (1.20 Soles)
- 1040 - Arrive in Urubamba. You will be immediately shuttled onto a bus to Cuzco, though that bus may not leave for several minutes. However, your early arrival guarantees you front seats, where you will have room to store your packs and stretch out your legs. (3 Soles)
- 1105 - This bus often picks up flirty, teenaged Peruvian girls. They are very loud. Try to rest, despite the giggles.
- 1400 - Arrive in Cuzco!!!
AMOUR!!! You have completed Phase III of the Don Isaac Trail!
Total travel time: 4 Days, 3 Nights Total transportation and attraction cost: 140 Soles
After the trail...
After Don Isaac, we are POOPED. We hostel shop for a bit, but return to the Procuradora, despite the chilly room and hard-as-a-board bed. Wade loves this place so, because of its awesome balcony, and when he suggests we just put the third mattress onto my bed, I can´t really argue.
I take a shower with hot water. Real hot water. Although I can´t turn it on any harder than a few drops, because then the heat will disperse and it will be a warm shower or a warmish shower.
We check out the Israeli place down the street, not the one we were supposed to do Shabbat at and bailed, but a different place. YUM ISRAELI FOOD. We get salat, chips, falafel, and malawach. It is so good, so Israeli, so not Peruvian. SADLY, the Israeli food throws our bottom systems for a loop, and we suffer for the rest of the day. Into the evening. Into our nap, during internet time, even while receiving offers of marijuana from strange sketchy cigarette sellers on the street.
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